Navarre Beach Dress: Free Crochet Pattern
Humidity teases my hair, fluffing it up into wild unruliness. My toes curl up in the squeaky wet sand. I breathe deeply of the saly air as I gaze across restless waves. My silent reflections are echoed by the crashing waves and screeching gulls - echoed, but not interrupted. To be completely honest, I’m not a beach sort of person. I don’t like swimming in the wild waters, I don’t like crowds, and I’m not the sort of person who enjoys wearing a bathing suit. But I like the ocean before a storm - when the beach is empty, the waves are mischievous, and the shells abundant. When the sun hides, the clouds glower, and the wind rampages like a disappointed toddler - those are the days I like to walk the beach. For some reason, I love the feel of the wind pulling at my dress - the rampant freedom of nature inspires me!
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The Design:
Using simple stitches, this design works up quickly in four seperate panels. The four panels are seamed together (don’t worry, this is actually super easy - I’ll give you my favorite seaming tip when we get to that part!) to form a hankerchief hem and v-neckline. The highs of this dress are pretty short while the long parts are long - it is full of drama!!
The Navarre Beach Dress crochet pattern is FULL of customization options! Want a higher neckline? We can do that. Want a shorter hem - ya know, more like a tunic? We can do that! Customizations for the pattern are written in - keep reading for more about the pattern!
Fashion Potential:
Yes, this dress was deisgned with beach combing in mind - but you can definitely style it for different occasions. I’ve work it with a slip and a cardigan as a light spring dress, because I sometimes like to dress things up a bit! As a tunic, this would look darling with a pair of dark wash jeans and flip flops set off with a wide brim hat. Or maybe pull out all the stops and grab heels and a statement necklace and show off your handiwork on a cruise (also, I’ve never been on a cruise, are they fun?). Either way, you can’t go wrong with the drape and charm of this dress!
The Yarn:
Cotton. Of course it is made with cotton! With the warm weather coming, the seaspray flying, cotton is the only fiber to be working with! I used Lilly’s Sugars n’ Cream from Walmart, but, I’ll be honest, I hate it. The Sugars n’ Cream is much more suited for dishcloths than for garments. The cotton is rough and doesn’t hold up well through multiple washes. I would recommend you use Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton or Hobby Lobby I Love This Cotton. Either of those cottons are much softer, come in a wide array of colors, and hold up much better as a garment.
The Hook:
I will always recommend you get ergonomic hooks, especially for a long or large project. This one is no different! I’ve used quite a few ergonomic hooks, but my current favorite are the Furls Odyssey hooks. I use a knife grip and am prone to carpel tunnel, but with this hook, I find I am able to crochet faster and longer. The hook is balanced beautifully and glides through the yarn. There is something elegant in the deisgn - the hooks have obviously been well though through and designed very intentionally. I cannot recommend these hooks highly enough!
Don’t forget to check out these other free crochet patterns!
The Pattern:
Materials:
Worsted/4 Weight Cotton
One size—1700 yds
Plus size –2100 yds
Hook 6.5 mm
Stitch Markers
Yarn Needle
Stitches and Terms:
Ch—chain
Sl St– slip stitch
Fsc—foundation single crochet
Sc—single crochet
Hdc—half double crochet
Dc—double crochet
Tr—treble crochet
Gauge:
4” x 4” = 1 pattern repeat + 3 rows of sc x 11 sc across (blocked) Pattern repeat = 3 rows of sc, 2 rows of Sprouts (see notes below)
U.S. Terms
Notes:
· This pattern uses the Sprout Stitch from the Desert Blossom Craft Blog—find the full stitch tutorial here.
· One pattern repeat of the Sprout Stitch is three rows of sc and two rows of “Sprouts”
· You can adjust the bust size and length to fit your own size or style—details for adjusting the bust will be listed in the seaming instructions. Details for making tunic length are included in the panel instructions.
· Pattern counts are listed in OS, with ascending sizes in parenthesis (PS).
· Notes in the pattern are in (italics and parenthesis)
· Stitches worked in the same space are in (parenthesis)
· End counts are in (bold, italics, parenthesis)
· Repeats are between *stars*
Make 4 panels
Fsc 77 (97) OR Ch 78 (98) , sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch (77, 97 sc) Turn.
Note: If you want a shorter, tunic length, start with fsc 69 (85)
Row 1-2: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc (77, 97 sc) Turn.
Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as tr), tr in next st, sk 2 st, (tr, 2 dc, tr) in 3rd st, *sk 3 st, (tr, 2 dc, tr) in 4th st,* repeat until 4 st left, sk 2 st, tr in last 2 st. (18, 23 sprouts) Turn.
Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as tr), tr in next tr, sk 2 st, (tr, 2 dc, tr) BETWEEN the 2 dc of previous row’s sprout,* sk 4 st, (tr, 2 dc, tr) between the 2 dc of previous row’s sprout* repeat in each sprout across, tr in last two tr. (18, 23 sprouts) Turn.
Row 5: ch 1 (doesn’t count), sc in same st and in each st until you reach the 9th (10th) sprout, sc in first two st of sprout, sc BETWEEN the two middle dc, sc in each stitch until the end. (77, 97 sc) Turn.
Row 6-7: ch 1 (doesn’t count) sc in the same stitch and in each st across (77, 97 sc)
Rows 8— 42 (47): Repeat rows 3-7.—do not fasten off.
Edging:
3 sc in the last st of Row 42 (47), to form a corner. Working down the side, sc in the side of each sc, 3 sc in the side of each tr. 3 sc in the corner, working across the bottom, sc in the bottom of each fsc, 3 sc in the last st to form corner. Working in the side, sc in each sc, 3 sc in each tr. Join with sl st to first sc, fasten off, weave in ends.
Joining:
· Start by laying out all four panels so the top right corner is in the middle (see diagram).
· Note: the top of the panel (three rows of sc) should form the neckline and back of the dress.
Front and Back Seams:
1. Measure (6”, 7”) down from the corner. Count the number of stitches. For me, 6” = 16 st.
2. Count the same number of stitches down on the panel you are joining it to—just to make sure they are lined up straight. Pin them together at the 6” (7”) mark.
3. Starting in the stitch AFTER the pin, seam through both panels to the bottom corner. I prefer to pick up a loop with my hook and slip stitch through both panels to make a seam.
4. Repeat this process for the back.
Side Seams:
1. Repeat the same process as the front and back seams, just measure down 7” (8”, 9”) down the side.
2. Continue seaming the same way you did for the front and back seams.
Adjustments:
If you have a bigger or smaller bust size, you can adjust the amount of room you have through the bodice. By raising or lowering the neckline seam, you can create a little more wiggle room in the pattern. You can also adjust the height of the side seams to create more or less room as needed.
Straps:
Row 1: Working in the front right panel, pick up a loop in the side of the top row of sc. Sc in the side of each of the top three rows of sc. (3 sc) Turn. (See Diagram for placement)
Row 2. Ch 1, turn, sc in ea sc (3 sc) Turn.
Row 3-12: Repeat Row 2. Fasten off, weave in ends. Repeat on the other front panel. Attach the strap to the side of the top rows 3 rows of the back panels to match the front. Fasten off, weave in ends.
Note: If desired, the straps can be lengthened or shorted by adding extra rows of sc. Just make sure both straps are the same length.
This pattern is written by Rebekah Haas. I hold the copyright to this pattern. It should not be published, shared, or sold without direct permission of the designer. You are, of course, welcome to sell any items you make using this pattern. If you post pictures of your item on Instagram or Facebook, please credit me with the design by linking to my Instagram account or website. Thank you for choosing to make my pattern! I hope it inspires you!